Helpful Hints
More Knots
by Kent Hull
The Orvis Hook Knot Revisited
Helpful Hints
More Knots
by Kent Hull
The Orvis Hook Knot Revisited
Last month's article didn't show the correct illustrations. Follow these steps to tie the knot. As always, close the knot up, lubricate, and tighten firmly to get full knot strength.
The commonly used surgeon's end loop is tied the same way as the surgeon's tippet knot, except that the doubled end of the leader material replaces the overlapped leader sections. This loop knot is no stronger than the equivalent tippet knot. If you want to rig your leader for a break-off at the loop knot at 60% to 70% of the tippet strength, this is the knot to use. I recommend other knots for forming a loop. The illustrations show each knot tied as a non-slip loop hook knot. If you want a terminal loop (for a loop to loop connection, for example) just omit the fly. Why go to the trouble to use a loop hook knot? A dry fly will tend to ride more naturally instead of being forced to be an extension of the leader. A subsurface fly will swing much more freely and probably look a lot more natural for the same reason.
This knot is ideal for forming the loop in the thick end of the leader if you use a loop to loop system to attach your leader to your line. Although it's not as strong as Lefty's loop knot, it will still be much stronger than your tippet section. I learned it from an illustration in a book: not the easiest way if there's no explanatory text. Here's how I remember it.
First, make a loop by bringing the tag end counterclockwise under the standing end. Pinch the part where the lines cross between your index finger and thumb. This loop only has to be big enough to get another loop through it, and a fly if you're using it as a hook knot. Second, bring the short end toward you, then around the back of the first loop close to where you've pinched the crossing line. Relax the pinch a little to slide this next crossing down so you can pinch it too. This loop will become the finished one. Third, continue the short end around and lay it between the two loops. Again, relax the pinch to catch this with the rest. Fourth, pull the second loop (step two) through the first loop. If you're using this as a hook knot, pull the fly through the first loop. Snug the knot up. To close the first loop, pull on the standing end. To adjust the size of the loop, work the tag end back (enlarge) or out (reduce). Lubricate the knot and set it with a firm pull on the standing end and loop. This knot is stronger than the surgeon's end loop, and more compact, but it will usually break before the tippet does.
Lefty Kreh denies credit for this knot. However most everyone who uses it first saw it in the fishing knot book he wrote with Mark Sosin. No one seems to remember the knot name used in the book, so Lefty's knot it is. Tied and seated properly, this knot is often as strong or stronger than the tippet. And besides a braid splice or Bimini twist, it's the only loop knot I know of that will hold in GSP (Gel-Spun Polyethylene) which is used as low-bulk backing more and more.
Follow the steps as shown. Make sure the tag end coming out of the overhand knot around the standing line ( the side attached to the reel) points toward the reel. And remember whether it came out back to front, or front to back. In the Kreh/Sosin book, the number of times the tag end is wrapped around the standing line depends on the thickness of line. It was found recently (American Angler Vol. 20 #1 p.20) that seven turns seems to work best in most tippet material. I recommend eight turns in GSP. Go ahead and wrap the tag end around the standing part seven times, making sure the wraps stay on the reel side of the overhand knot. It works best for me to pinch the overhand knot between fourth finger and thumb and use the left hand pinkie to keep the part toward the reel straight. This leaves the first two fingers of the right hand, and thumb and index finger of the left hand available to pass the tag end back and forth to wrap it around the standing line. It takes a little practice (OK, maybe a lot) but it's certainly a lot easier than learning to tie a blood knot with just your fingers the way Jon Bowman does it. When you've finished wrapping the seven turns, pass the tag end back through the overhand knot the same way it came through before the wraps. (If it came out back to front, return it front to back so they're parallel.) Close the knot, adjust the loop and tighten. Hints: close the overhand knot first by pulling on the loop side of the knot. Then take up the excess on the wraps by pinching the overhand knot and pulling the tag end through your finger-pinch. You may find it easiest to put the loop or hook around some fixed object such as your forceps when clamped to your vest, keep a little bit of tension on the standing line, then pull on the tag end against the standing line, firmly enough to close up the wraps. Don't close the overhand knot or wraps too tightly, or you won't be able to adjust the loop size. Adjust the loop by pulling the standing line out of the knot (reduce) or pulling on the loop and letting the standing line go through the knot (enlarge). Finish closing the knot by pulling on the tag end to tighten the wraps snugly. Lubricate the knot and set it by pulling very firmly on the standing line. (Note: there are a number of knot lubricating products available, from Loon, Gehrke, Rio and others. Water or spit seem to work just as well, though.)
This knot actually has only one more step than an improved clinch knot (counting the overhand knot as two steps), though it's a little trickier to close and set.
Next month: Float Tube Maneuvering For Beginners (and the rest of us who think learning is recognizing mistakes we've made before) Ð by Elaine Cook